Coachchem Laboratory Story | Episode Ten:How to Tame Retinol, the ‘Rose with Thorns’? (Part 2)
Measures to reduce irritation
1. It is recommended to add retinol at 0.05%–0.2% (based on pure retinol) in formulations; concentrations that are too high may increase the risk of skin irritation.
2. Using encapsulated retinol can help alleviate its irritation to some extent.
3. Based on the root causes of retinol-induced irritation, it’s beneficial to include appropriate soothing ingredients—for example, retinol combined with trans-4-tert-butylcyclohexanol (a TRPV1 receptor antagonist).
4. Additionally, incorporating soothing ingredients with different mechanisms can synergistically reduce skin irritation, such as oat extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and allantoin for anti-inflammatory and calming effects, as well as barrier-repair agents like ceramide NP and ectoine.
Measures to Enhance Stability and Activity
1. Retinol is sensitive to high temperatures, so it should be added to formulations at low temperatures during production. Finished products are also recommended to be stored in a cool environment.
2. Avoid mixing with strongly acidic or alkaline products; the formulation pH should be mildly acidic (4.0–6.0), ideally around 5.0.
3. Formulations should include antioxidants (such as BHA, BHT, propyl gallate, tocopherol), chelating agents, and photoprotectants to enhance the stability and activity of retinol.
4. Packaging materials for retinol products should be light-proof and vacuum-sealed. If possible, inert gases (argon or nitrogen) can be used during production and filling to improve stability.
Tips for Using Retinol Products
1.Retinol promotes skin renewal, but sensitivity varies by skin type. Users should be advised to perform a patch test before use.
2.Products containing retinol are recommended for nighttime use; if used during the day, sunscreen is essential.
3.Within 2–3 days of retinol use, users may experience redness, dryness, peeling, or itching. During this period, increased hydration and moisturization are advised. If irritation is severe, discontinue use for 1–2 days and resume after tolerance develops.
4.Build skin tolerance gradually by starting with low concentration and frequency, then slowly increasing to normal use.
5.Pregnant women and those planning pregnancy are advised to avoid retinol products.